By Willow (willowashmaple.sbs)
Feb. 24, 2026
Before Portland, Oregon became known worldwide as a foodie hub, before Portland was transformed into "Portlandia," it was still a relatively small regional city. There were more adult bookstores per capita than any other U.S. city. Hard to believe now, but it was also a hotspot of Evangelical Christianity, despite Oregon being the most unchurched state in the nation. It was an interesting blend of Christians, hippies, anarchists, the Green Party, punk rock, blue-collar culture, and yuppies.
There were two food carts -- actual "carts" that they had to push around. They were on a sidewalk, not at a food cart pod. No Fish! Go Fish! was the epitome of Portland's culinary creativity in fusion food. John and Sean would set up their cart on the sidewalk of the Pioneer Courthouse every weekday, serving up what they called "No Fish" -- Korean bungeo-ppang but with unusual fillings such as curry. John bought a bungeo-ppang grill while in Korea teaching English. Five dollars would buy one a couple of them and a selection of soup in a 16-ounce paper cup. The other food cart, Fuego, was usually around the Civic Stadium (now Providence Park). I was not sure why Fuego was in such a quiet, deserted residential area when there was nothing happening at the stadium (at the time, the Civic Stadium was home to a minor-league baseball team, Portland Rockies).
"Japanese" food meant something we called "bento" and "teriyaki." I noticed that many of these places were owned by Koreans. Happy Bowl had three locations in downtown, so they must have been doing very well. There was one right on the transit mall (SW 5th Avenue & SW Salmon Street), so I would often get a tofu bowl to go before heading out to the evening classes. It came with pickled red ginger and pickled onions.
Chinese food typically meant something that had been thoroughly Americanized, served at a "Chinese and American Food" restaurant on 82nd Avenue, unless you were at the House of Louie or Seven Stars.
Vegan and vegetarian foods had that old-fashioned, natural food store smell, whether at the Urban Onion (the deli inside the Daily Grind on Hawthorne, now demolished and occupied by New Seasons Market) or at the Paradox Cafe on Belmont.
I recall there were at least a couple of all-you-can-eat Indian buffets during the lunch time, India House near the Central Library, and Swagat on NW 21st Avenue. If one were looking for some Middle Eastern cuisine, there were only a few options: Al-Amir in downtown, Hoda on Belmont, Marrakesh on NW 21st, and the Persia House (next to the India House).
And everyone who lived in Portland back then remembers Macheezmo Mouse and its famed "Boss Sauce." It was far ahead of its time.
Fine dining in Portland generally meant the Old Spaghetti Factory on Bancroft Street, which was in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by industrial and warehouse buildings. Now the same building is next to all the skyscraper condos and occasionally in the path of chemical weapons coming from the frequent protests a few blocks to the west.
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